June 2011

Kyoto calls

By Thomas Appleyard

Far from the epicenter of east Japan's earthquake and tsunami, the former imperial city is still open for business


Originally named Heian-kyo – which literally means "the capital of tranquility and peace" – Kyoto is a relaxing destination filled with cultural jewels.


With 1,600 Buddhist temples and 400 shrines, the southwest Japanese city is known for its long history and abundance of religious sites. Despite its population of 1.5 million, the former imperial capital has small town charm with its narrow roads and traditional low-rise buildings.


While Japan is facing a downturn in visitors in the wake of the March 11 earthquake and tsunami, the Japan National Tourism Organisation has said that only 0.1% of the country was affected by the disaster. Kyoto, located about 800 kilometers from the epicenter of the 9.0 magnitude earthquake in east Japan's Tohoku region, is distanced away from the disaster's aftermath.


While there is no visible difference in Kyoto life post-quake, there has been a general trend to spend less on luxuries in this somber time – something which will eventually fade as the government continues to warn of the economic implications of reduced consumption.


Philosopher's Walk


This quaint pathway offers an enjoyable 30-minute stroll alongside a cherry tree lined canal connecting two temples, the Ginkaku-ji (the silver pavilion) and Nanzen-ji. The Philosopher's Walk is named after the influential 20th century Japanese philosopher, Nishida Kitaro, who is said to have frequented the walkway for daily meditation.


The area also offers plenty of places to have a nose around, with restaurants and cafes scattered between a mixture of traditional and modern houses.


Kiyomizu Temple


Located in the eastern part of Kyoto, Kiyomizu is one of Japan's national treasures and one of 21 finalists in the New Seven Wonders of the World. The main hall and its veranda hang over the hillside on wooden stilts, offering impressive views of the city.


Legend has it that survivors of the 13-meter-drop from the veranda to the Otowa Waterfall below are granted one wish; another traditional belief promises wisdom, health and longevity for those who drink water from the pond, which is fed via three separate channels from the waterfall.


Visitors can test for themselves the three mythical powers of the water but should do so with care: Some Japanese say that choosing all three wishes is greedy, and can lead to misfortune.


Teramachi Street


Along Teramachi Street lies an assortment of must-see attractions, including the famous Imperial Palace, antiquarian bookshops, traditional tea houses, fine eateries, as well as a shopping arcade. The arcade itself is not spectacular, but Japanese fashion fans will enjoy its boutiques, which stock well-made, simple yet stylish clothing.


Iwatayama Monkey Park


Iwatayama Monkey Park offers a break from visiting the irresistible, but somewhat overwhelming, number of temples and shrines dotted around the city. Perched on the top of a steep hill overlooking Kyoto, there are over 170 Japanese macaque monkeys roaming free in the park. Although wild, the monkeys are used to human contact and do not hassle visitors.


Tenryu-ji Temple


The world heritage site, Tenryu-ji Temple, is situated on the outskirts of the city in a small town called Arashiyama. It is ranked first among the Five Great Zen Temples of Kyoto. The delicate beauty of the temple and its surrounding gardens allows visitors to envisage the peaceful lives of its former inhabitants. Just outside of the temple grounds lies a small bamboo forest with a pathway running through its center. The Iwatayama Monkey Park is within walking distance of Tenryu-ji Temple, as is the local train station which has trains running frequently back into downtown Kyoto.